The Paradoxes of Saison

It is the third most-brewed beer in the US and yet has no significant best-sellers. It is called "rustic" but is prized for its sophistication. It is the broadest style in the world--if you can even call it a style--and yet most of the tradition traces itself pretty directly back to a single beer.

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The American Lambic Wars

In one of the tinier pockets of the brewing world, a heated debate rages. What should Americans call the beer made in the manner of spontaneously-fermented Belgian lambic? This wasn't remotely an issue until about 2007, when Allagash Brewing started a program that followed the practices quite closely. There may have been some efforts along the way toward traditional lambic-style beer, but Allagash built a dedicated coolship room and committed to an ongoing program making the beer. Last year, one of the small club of Americans making these beers decided to name and codify it, and thus began the debate.

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Coors Light is Lagered Cold!

On the first commercial break, MillerCoors ran an add touting the way Coors Light is made: "Cold lagered," "cold filtered," and "cold packaged," read the animation. This is part of a long tradition of beer companies touting bog-standard brewing practices in order to impress people who don't know the first thing about brewing.

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Vignette 20: Bohuslav Hlavsa

The brewer at Kout na Šumavě spoke not a word of English--that I heard. Back in 2014, we visited the brewery and Evan Rail translated what Mr. Hlavsa said. What started to emerge was one of the oddest processes I've encountered for making světlé pivo (what we call pilsner).

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VignetteJeff Alworth